Tuesday, June 19, 2007

Arki Heights

Arki Fort
Arki is a quietgetaway hidden away in Western Himalayas boasting of a rich cultural heritage.

Arki. Does this name ring a bell in your head? Well for starters, it’s a quaint town tucked away on the midhills of the western Himalayas. Located about 40 kilometres from Shimla, Arki was once the headquarters of the princely state of Baghal and still boasts of India’s last living crowned king — Raja Rajendra Singh, who was crowned as the King of Baghal just before India’s independence.
Well, we are not going to talk about the Raja here. Instead we’ll talk about his heritage fort, which has now been converted into a hotel — The Palace Retreat, Arki. But if you are a great listener, then you can indulge in a story-telling session with the King. He has plenty of stories to tell you, including the times of India’s freedom struggle, about the lores of Arki and how in his kingdom, no one was hung to death.
The hotel is part of the 17th century heritage fort complex built by Rana Prithvi Singh, the ruler of the former Baghal State from 1695-1700 AD, in a Northern-Indian, Rajput Mughal style. The fort has a rich history behind it. The Arki fort was also the headquarters of the Nepalese General Amar Singh Thapa for eight years from 1806-1815, when he ruled Himachal.

The Arki kings also patronised art in a big way. The palace is famous for its frescoes executed in the Arki Kalam style, thanks to the art-loving Raja Kishan Chand (1840-1876). The roof bears a splendid floral design, while the wall murals depict battles scenes and episodes from the Puranas and other epics. Do check out the brilliant representation of Kalidasa’s poem Kumarasambhava.

It’s a pleasant country-side retreat for travellers on the way to Manali, Dharamshala and Shimla. Whichever way you are going from Delhi, if you take a slight detour, you are bound to get mesmerised by the palace and the small town of Arki, which means a sunny place. Baghal is the short form of Baghalaya, translated as the land of leopards. Well, Leopards are a rarity here now, but if you trek to the hills, you might have a brush with them. Arki is a place to unwind. Far from the maddening crowd, it’s a loner’s delight. One can relax in the fruit orchard and flower garden here. You can also go for long walks in the forest. Ancient cave temples are also located near Arki. One can go on a trek there too. Naldehra Golf Course and the hot sulphur springs at Tattapani are also not that far off from the place.

The view from the Cliffend-Bar-N-Cafe terrace is especially charming at night illuminated by the lights from nearby hillside towns and villages. The rooms are beautiful as they still retain a regal charm. The hotel serves a wide range of Mughlai, regional pahari, and select European, Latin, Chinese and Thai cuisine. It also has a well-stocked bar with a variety of snacks.For details log onto http://www.hotelpalaceretreat.com/ or call 01796-220621, 220021.

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